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Post by jmarriott on Nov 23, 2012 10:22:23 GMT -5
Seen some done in true oil that came out well and one in a mix of true oil and armor all.(?) Also seen the old stain and poly that gave it the Winchester/browning finish that is so pretty. Marlins normally have some good wood under the marshield finish. Some i have even seen with fiddle and burl patterns at times. The stain ond poly does make them look refinished for sure as marlins were never real shiney.
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Post by jimh on Nov 23, 2012 10:59:05 GMT -5
there is defiantly some figure going on in the forearm on this gun. I took some before pics and I'll post them along with the finished piece. the stock had a lot of crinkling and cracking going on in the finish especialy near the butt. also the color of the finish looked muddied a bit in that area. I think this is from a lot of wear during use and I think there has been some exposure to either gun oil or some solvents that caused the deterioration of the finish in that area.
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Post by jmarriott on Nov 23, 2012 13:54:19 GMT -5
Dad refinished a 721 or 722 rem 30-06 that had gotten some insect repellant on the stock. It did not take long for whatever got on it to eat into the finish. The refished stock looked great but it was a bolt action so it was easy.
Marshield is a protective coating. It seems to me that UV light is the main cause. I bought a 39a from the 1980's that had hung over a mantle for many years. The mantle was close to large patio doors and windows with west light hitting the mantle. One side of the finnish looked like orange peel and the other side was fine. The sunny side was peeled. I have marlins with marshield that look 100% on finish and it is still marshield. Since they seldom used the fireplace I do not think it was heat or smoke that was the cause. It will also chip a bit after a nasty scratch.
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Post by jimh on Nov 23, 2012 14:59:19 GMT -5
I tied lacquer thinner to remove the finish and it didn't seem to do anything. perhaps the brand of thinner I bought wasn't strong enough. so I ended up sanding it all down and then took the steam iron and a wet rag to it and got most of the dents up. I just finished sanding awhile ago with some 400 grit sand paper and wiped it all down with mineral spirits. It really got cold out today here and I now find myself trying to figure out what to do about the finish because my garage is not heated and I need warmer temps to use lacquer.
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Post by jimh on Nov 23, 2012 18:24:45 GMT -5
well I just finished sanding with 600 grit. now to pick up the finish materials and go to town.
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Post by jimh on Nov 27, 2012 13:59:10 GMT -5
well i need to try to figure out what best method will produce the nicest grain display. if i go lacquer (pretty much for sure will) i'll want to fill the pores of the walnut before applying the finish. one method is to stain (if desired to) first then seal with a shelac and then use the paste wood filler with stain added to offset the open pores of the wood grain but because of the sealer will not alter the color of the wood. by picking the right contrast you can make a dramatic statement with the grain or just a subtle hint, after the pores are filled and fully cured then hit it with the finish.
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Post by Bill on Nov 28, 2012 8:44:48 GMT -5
IF you want a deep clear glossy finish use automotive clear coat and put it on with one of those small sprayers like they use for fine detail work. Make sure you use an inline filter to keep moisture out of the finish or you will regret it. You can even buff it out when your finished. ;D A friend of mine used this for repairs on Browning shotguns as it matched perfectly with what Browning used. I have seen him repair broken stocks and then paint the grain back on the stock covering the crack and then clear coat over it and when it was dry he would use a wet and dry sand paper to feather it back out and then buff it off and you could not see the crack no matter what. Of course he charged high dollars to do these kind of repairs but it was worth it. Was cheaper than wood. I had even seen him take really plain wood and put mineral streaks in it and then clear coat it and it would look like the most fantastic piece of wood you had ever seen. You just about need a paint room to do this in but I think a person could hang some sheets up to keep it from drifting all over the place. He just had a paint room like a paint shop would and never sanded in that area. Kept the dust down and he seldom had a problem with dust in his finish that way. Room was spotless.
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Post by jimh on Nov 28, 2012 9:17:39 GMT -5
i'm not a fan of the high gloss automotive finish, it just doesn't come close to a good quality lacquer finish in my opinion. but you're right that stuff works well and is tough as nails.
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Post by jmarriott on Nov 28, 2012 11:19:03 GMT -5
Jim what finish are you looking for. A high gloss browning/winchester finish, a marlin true oil type, A hand rubbed lacquer. Second time to get to my photobook account hold on. here is the old marlin origianal finish from the 1950's. Does not show grain real well, savage 99's of the era seem to be like this also. I think the red
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Post by jmarriott on Nov 28, 2012 11:47:09 GMT -5
finish for the winchester look is available from numrich. Gives off the red walnut look of the XTR lineup from winchester and like on the BL-22 . Staining walnut is tricky. Mainy use natural if the wood is dark already, mainy use walnut to give off that dark finish like a 1980's rem 870, and others use the red as the win finish. We use to refinish and fix tables and chairs. Getting off the old finish was the Key to a good final product. We had dip tanks and high pressure hoses and often if wood glue was used in construction of the chairs it would strip that also. The seal with a shelac is a very important step in the process. It seals the outer grain allowing a good hold for the top coats. we used 40% shelac and 60% mineral sprits let set at least 24 hours before proceeding better to wait 48. Once you do this you can't change the under coat without sanding. After that we would spray top coat and wait to dry, buffed with wet dry sand paper and sometimes steel wool and tach cloth off. Then repeat normally 3 times. Then top off with paste wax. We did it this way on lacquer finsh and poly coats. We sold more poly coats for the tempature resistanct on tables and chairs. More lacquer finish on bedroom and end tables. Coffee tabless and bars were always poly finishes. We also had an outdoor swing and chait line that got a specail finish similuar to thompsons. I do not know what is up with photo bucket. It makes my home machine run at 4 wheel drive low speeds. I take it you want the finish to look more like a semi gloss version of my 9422. Am I correct. That would require to me the red winchester stain to give it the red walnut look that seems to make the grain pop out a bit.
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Post by jimh on Dec 5, 2012 8:57:55 GMT -5
well i hit it with a coat of shellac last nice for my sanding sealer. i'll start to lay the lacquer on this week weather permitting. i can't beleive how the grain poped out with just the sanding sealer coat. this could end up looking pretty nice if i don't botch it.
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Post by jmarriott on Dec 5, 2012 13:54:58 GMT -5
At this point you will not botch it up. It seemed in the furnature stuff it was all in the prep and it sounds like that is covered well enough. I can't wait to see it. But take your time.
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Post by jimh on Dec 6, 2012 8:06:05 GMT -5
well my heater i was using to keep the dampness out and temp up in the garage is broken so it's going to be a bit before i can finish this up. i sanded down the sealer coat and i'm ready to hit the lacquer to it. now i just need to get the heater working so i can spray in my garage again.
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Post by jimh on Dec 18, 2012 21:25:51 GMT -5
Well I bought a new heater and I was able to hit several coats of lacquer on the stock tonight. I'll wet sand with 1000 grit this week after a day or two and hit it with a few more coats and then wet sand with 1000 and then 2000 if all then open grain is fully filled. If not then I'll hit it once or twice more until I have a smooth finish and sand down with 2000 and then rub out with pumice and rottenstone. All of that will depend on weather conditions. Today was 60 and 30% humidity so keeping the garage dry and warm was not too hard. But wet and cold are moving in after tonight.
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Post by jmarriott on Dec 19, 2012 7:30:13 GMT -5
Did you deciede on a scope or peep's. I just picked up a 2.5 leopold ultralight in a trade.
I think it is going on one of my mounties or maybe on something I picked up in the trade along with the scope a 223 rifle lenght well 16.5 inch contender barrel.
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