Inside Case Neck Lubing?

[dovehunter]

For years now I have been using this Rube Goldberg apparatus from Bonanza that amounts to 3 different sized brushes affixed to a base that serves as a reservoir and topped with a removable cap. You dump powdered graphite in the reservoir, replace the cap, shake the whole thing, remove the cap, and then slide the case neck over the most appropriate sized brush. It's a big mess and hasn't gotten any less messy or cumbersome over the years. What do you guys use for this task (if anything)? Is there a better mousetrap for this and, if so, what is it? Personally, I have never cared much for using regular liquid or gel case lubes inside the case neck for fear of fouling the powder.

[jimiowa]

probably wont be any help. I use the RCBS liquid lube and apply it with a Q Tip. With 4 women in the house I have never bought a Q Tip for reloading, since theres always some in the makeup kits.
With my .223 & Hornet I don't run so much neck tension I need lube to seat the bullet. Only use lube in the sizing process.
The only thing I crimp is the .444 since it's in a tube feed.

[twomoons]

Dovehunter, why is it a mess? You are suppose to put enough graphite or CLEAN WHITE motor mica in the resevoir and as you push the case down it picks up just enough mica from the resevoir to lube the neck. My outfit is screwed to the bench and I fill it with mica once a year. IF I have an oops the motor mica just disappears as it is white almost translucent.

[klsm54]

I use the same method as twomoons, no shaking here.

[Jack]

I have one of those brush set ups, too, Dovehunter- I think mine was made by Midway.
I rarely use the thing. You can dip case necks straight into the container of mica or graphite.
The neatest set up I've heard about (but haven't tried) came from Rocky Raab: he takes a plastic film can, fills it with small bird shot (like #9), and dumps some powdered graphite in. Put the cap on, give it a shake. Take the cap off. Now, dip the case neck in the bird shot, maybe give it a twist, and pull it out. The birdshot fall back in the container, leaving behind just enough graphite on the case neck. Or so it is said.
I expect mica would work in that set up, too. Anyway, when you're done, pop the cap back on and put it away.
Personally, when I lube case necks separately, I just dip them in the container of graphite.
Most of the time, if I'm reloading more than a few cases, I use the spray lube, which, if you follow the directions on the can, will lube inside the case necks as well as the outside of the case. I've been using the spray since Hornady came out with their One Shot, and haven't had any problems with powder contamination.

[dovehunter]

2M:

My Bonanza thingee has holes in it for permanently mounting it to my loading bench but, if mounted it to the bench, there would be no way I could get powder up onto the brushes. I have been filling the reservoir, replacing the cap, and shaking the whole thing in order to get graphite up onto the brushes. The reservoir is only about 1/4 to 1/2" deep and the brushes stick up way beyond the reservoir. I may either try just sticking the case necks down in a pan of graphite or mica or using the Q-tip bit if you guys have never had problems with the liquid lubes fouling your powder.

[Bill]

I guess I am odd man out here. I use a brass brush with nothing on it and I put it in my drill and spin away. I do this before I clean and re size the cases. Never had a problem this way. I always figured it was just another way for the reloading company's to get in my pocket one more time for the wrong reason rather than fixing the problem. I also use carbide buttons on my resizing dies and most any problem like needing lube goes away.
The main reason for lubing is due to the fact that some of those neck sizing button's seem to be rough and can grab an over thick neck that's been sized down too far and really make them squeal like a pig when they come out. The carbide button does not do this.
Also measure your fired case prior to sizing it down. Then re-size it and measure the inside diameter of the case. IF its more than .003 less than the bullet dia. then you need to turn your case necks down so you have exactly .003 neck tension. Once you do this you have a lot less problems with needing to lube the neck.
If this still does not cure the problem then get a inside neck reamer and ream out the dreaded donut. This is a ring that develops when a case is sized down and can actually be smaller in diameter than the rest of the neck and also cause the squeal you hear when you are resizing and one of the reasons for lubing in the first place.

[dovehunter]

I like the idea of carbide expander buttons and recall having heard before that you can get them. However, wouldn't something like that have to come from the specific die manufacturer? I have some old dies (like Herter's) for which you can no longer get replacement parts. I am going to show my ignorance here and ask if you can buy 3rd party expander buttons?

[klsm54]

Dove hunter, you put maybe a 1/4" of motor mica in the reservoir. Then you stick the case neck into the motor mica. Then you run the case over the brush. The brushes spread the mica the length of the neck, and know out the excess.

[Bill]

Sorry DH but the carbide expander is specific to the dies and I really don't know anyone that makes parts for those dies anymore.
For one thing they were too good and probably too expensive to make anymore except for their cheaper ones.

[Jack]

Dovehinter, it's been 10 years at least since Hornady came out with their One Shot spray lube. I haven't had a problem with powder contamination yet, and I've used quite a few cans of the stuff, or the equivalent Midway stuff (whatever's cheaper).
Just follow the directions on the can.

[twomoons]

Best stuff for neck lubing is Jack Daniels and it comes by the case to!

[Jack]

Twomoons, that method of neck lubing can cause severe headspace problems. ;D