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Post by Purebred Redneck on Aug 12, 2009 22:51:47 GMT -5
My dad was given a 1851 brass navy revolver today. It has Hawes stamped on it and it apparently appears to be quite old (30-40 years maybe). I have not seen it, but the finish on the outside is suppost to be pretty good but unfortunatly the prevouis owner must of forgot to clean the barrel the last time he shot it several years ago  Anyway, the cylinder lock on it is all messed up / worn out. Dad said if the gun is at full cock you can rotate the cylinder by hand all the way around (although with a bit of pressure). He also said that when it's at full cock you can pull the hammer back a smidge more and the cylinder will start to rotate. When you relieve that hammer pressure and put it back to full cock, the cylinder goes back to it's correct position most of the time. I guess my questions would be 1. Can anyone give me some information on this gun. I assume Hawes is a distributer in California and the gun was made in Italy - by who? 2. Can you interchange parts from either a present day Pietta or Uberti? Or where might you find parts if they won't interchange? I know dad's undecided whether he wants to try to get it in safe working order or just toss it the trash (a couple pieces a week). Thanks in advance from the both of us. |
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Post by dovehunter on Aug 13, 2009 7:59:46 GMT -5
This isn't going to help very much. Hawes was an importer from back in the late 60's and early 70's. I don't know whether or not you had Best Products stores out there but my Dad bought a Hawes .357 mag. Western Marshall Colt clone from them along about that time frame. His gun was actually made by J. P. Sauer and Sohn, one of Germany's biggest and most prestigious gunmakers and is very good quality. As I remember all the Hawes stuff was usually pretty good quality and I would bet your Dad's '51 Navy knockoff was no exception. I'd be willing to bet that other manufacturer's parts, if not necessarily interchangeable, could be made to fit without undue effort. Maybe TwoMoons could offer some comments on this. At any rate, if it were me, I would not throw it away. If nothing else, I'd clean it up and hang it over the fireplace.
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bounce
Royal Member
Posts: 5,727
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Post by bounce on Aug 13, 2009 9:45:09 GMT -5
Ask your dad if you could have it 1st. Then if if that pans out, Put it in a box and send it to two moons with a note if you fix this let me know what it will cost to get it back? smiles
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Post by dovehunter on Aug 13, 2009 13:10:20 GMT -5
Those guns are fun to shoot. Most of them are much smoother than the '58 Remington repro. that you already have. I had one too - a .36 cal - though mine had an all steel color case-hardened frame. I kind of wish now that I hadn't sold it to a guy who wanted to buy it to convert it to shoot centerfire .38 S&W rounds. I have world-class hind sight. Mine was a good shooter too.  |
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Post by twomoons on Aug 13, 2009 13:44:11 GMT -5
Parts will have to be hand fitted but most Uberti parts will be adaptable. If the cylinder won't lock it could be as simple as a broken spring, the most common break or the locking bolt itself may be damaged. Usually $25.00 worth of parts will put one in order so you are probably loooking at $30-40 bucks total. HHawes guns came from either Uberti or Pietta depending on who was cheapest that month. They are as good as any of the less expensive replicas.
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bounce
Royal Member
Posts: 5,727
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Post by bounce on Aug 13, 2009 15:54:12 GMT -5
Now watch Red say that's to much money for a trash can gun. LOL. Opertunity is knocking Red.
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Post by Purebred Redneck on Aug 13, 2009 23:14:39 GMT -5
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Post by Purebred Redneck on Aug 14, 2009 22:26:43 GMT -5
Ok, so it was made in 1975 by Armi San Paolo (now Euroarms). The finish on the outside is actually worse than the inside of the barrel. There's a good amount of rusting, pitting, and blueing wear from steel wool on the outside but nothing that will prohibit the gun from being used. Actually the inside of the barrel should look decent after it is properly cleaned --- probably as good as my rifle which has your typical minor pitting on the rifling. The cylinder does rotate by hand when the gun is at full cock. I'm not sure if the new ones do that or not. While at full cock, the hammer does come back a smidge and the cylinder begins to rotate but will come back when the cylinder returns to full cock. There are 4 clicks when cocking. The first two are sharp and crisp while the last two barely click at all and has a bit of drag. It's almost to the point that it could fail and fall back down to it's prevouis click, but after cocking it maybe 20 times it was solid enough for now I guess. I think it's something that needs to be adressed though. I actually think it's safe to shoot right now (assuming you glance at it before each shot) Rumor is that egunparts had some factory drop-in parts several years ago. Maybe they still do; I'll have to check later.   |
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Post by twomoons on Aug 17, 2009 8:29:42 GMT -5
Red don't shoot it till it's fixed, it will just try your patience. Put on a dovetail sight that is high enough and fix the action and it will be a good shooter for you for years.
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Post by dovehunter on Aug 17, 2009 15:31:45 GMT -5
The way you had described it earlier it sounded like a real dog. I don't think that one looks in that bad a shape at all. If it were mine, I'd get it fixed. Talk sweetly to twomoons. He might be willing to fix it for you if you send it to him.
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