Post by twomoons on Mar 9, 2009 11:11:32 GMT -5
How hard should yor knife be? Through the years various materials have been used for blades and the idea has always been to make a blade that #1 would take a fine edge and #2 hold that edge for as long as possible. By the 1950's were had progressed to making a blade that would hold an edge for a full hunting season for the average hunter. The best example here is the BUCK knives. Now days we have Ceramic blades and AUS54 Cyro treated blades that will last longer yet. I recently tried a Boecker ceramic that advertises it NEVER needs resharpening, shades of the GINSU. The problem is that sooner or later, all advertisments to the contrary EVERY knife needs resharpening.
Since I resharpen knives on a regular basis and since I have to resharpen tools regularly I have come to some peculiar predjucices in regards to what I want in a knife.
If I am working in the shop and have the necessary tooling at hand I have no problem with a super hard blade. A Buck Knife made from AUS 54 can be a bear to sharpen without the proper tools and for this one a diamond hone set is a big help. If you have a ceramic knfe you better have a diamond wheel and a water grinding set. ($4000) BUT...
In the field or at deer camp I would much rather have to resharpen a blade between deer than to try and sharpen a blade that takes a green wheel and a diamond hone set to edge up. My favorite blades are from 1095 or 5156 carbon steel because if I have to I can sharpen them to a decent edge with nothing more than a pocket stone or even a crock lid. I might have to swipe the blade on a steel 1/2way through a deer but I can easily sharpen the bllade with low tech equipment.
I won't take a high tech knife into the back beyond with me because I know that when it dulls, and I know it will, I won't be able to put a GOOD edge on it without a trip to the shop.
Since I resharpen knives on a regular basis and since I have to resharpen tools regularly I have come to some peculiar predjucices in regards to what I want in a knife.
If I am working in the shop and have the necessary tooling at hand I have no problem with a super hard blade. A Buck Knife made from AUS 54 can be a bear to sharpen without the proper tools and for this one a diamond hone set is a big help. If you have a ceramic knfe you better have a diamond wheel and a water grinding set. ($4000) BUT...
In the field or at deer camp I would much rather have to resharpen a blade between deer than to try and sharpen a blade that takes a green wheel and a diamond hone set to edge up. My favorite blades are from 1095 or 5156 carbon steel because if I have to I can sharpen them to a decent edge with nothing more than a pocket stone or even a crock lid. I might have to swipe the blade on a steel 1/2way through a deer but I can easily sharpen the bllade with low tech equipment.
I won't take a high tech knife into the back beyond with me because I know that when it dulls, and I know it will, I won't be able to put a GOOD edge on it without a trip to the shop.