lube question

[smj617]

Just bought a new CVA inline muzzleloader. I was reading through the instruction manual and it said to use a non-petrlium based gun oil to wipe it down with. Now I have been shooting and cleaning guns for quite some time now and I have no idea why it would be a problem to use a petrolium based gun oil.

[Purebred Redneck]

Is is nickel finish?

If it's blued, I'd wipe the exterior as you would any other gun

[Jack]

The petroleum based lubes may penetrate and neutralize black powder. They will also leave a sludge in the bore.
What they're talking about is not using a petroleum based patch lube or lube on the bullets, not exterior rust preventing.
I really don't know why a petroleum based product would be a problem on the outside of any ML. Maybe Twomoons can tell us.

[Purebred Redneck]

Well Jack's got the right idea for the inside of the barrel - after cleaning the bore you'll want to run a patch of "bore butter" down it. (and remember to use a jag and paper towels to get the stuff out again before you shoot).
Use the marketed anti-seize grease for the breech plug if it's an inline.
If it's a sidelock, you can use borebutter on the threads of the nipple and side screw.

I wouldn't oil the bore, I'd definatly 100% go with borebutter.
But as far as cleaning the outside, use what you normally do unless it's nickel.

[deputydon]

admin said:

Well Jack's got the right idea for the inside of the barrel - after cleaning the bore you'll want to run a patch of "bore butter" down it. (and remember to use a jag and paper towels to get the stuff out again before you shoot).
Use the marketed anti-seize grease for the breech plug if it's an inline.
If it's a sidelock, you can use borebutter on the threads of the nipple and side screw.

I wouldn't oil the bore, I'd definatly 100% go with borebutter.
But as far as cleaning the outside, use what you normally do unless it's nickel.

For a change I have to agree w/ Red. Youngs Lube is a good inside the bore lube. But there are others on the market that work good to. Main thing is to season your bore.

[twomoons]

Black powder fouling is heavy in sulphur and tends to combine with non organic lubes to make a tar/ rubber substance that will choke up your gun after 1 shot. organic lubes mix with the fouling and are basicly water solubale. My favorite oil is bear oil and that was what the old timers used when they couldn't get sperm oil. (No RED not that). Since we no longer hunt whales bear is the next best choice and after that bore butter or Young's Lube or Old Zip, which is just sheeps tallow (lanolin)

[smj617]

It is nickel plated. Im curios why I shouldnt use petrlium based oil on it? I didnt realize that that the care was that much different on a muzzleloader than a regular rifle.

[Purebred Redneck]

Now someone else is going to have to chime in now that we know it's nickel finish.

As I understand it, that finish likes to tarnish easy and may require more carefull care on the outside.

btw, which model and caliber did you go with?

[smj617]

Its the Kodiac magnum in the .45 cal. I know most of you dont like the .45 cal but I got a great deal on it.

I thought the nickel finish was a better finish than most?

[jimiowa]

Alright I have to ask a question, it relates to this thread since I know it gets cold in NY too. I was just out in my unheated garage and the tube of Bore Butter over my workbench is froze solid.
If it will freeze solid in the tube could'nt it do the same in the bore while hunting? And what lube would not?

[Jack]

Well, it makes sense that it could, I suppose.
But, I've used it in below freezing weather without problems, more than once. I should say, I've loaded bullets or patches lubed with Bore Butter- never have taken the whole tube with me.
I can say that I have fired my ML loaded with a Bore Butter lubed Minie ball in sub freezing weather without problems.
So, I guess I'm not gonna worry about it.

[Purebred Redneck]

It's not actually frozen
(At least not at the temp we're talking about. Now in Antartica...I may be a little bit more convinced)

It's lube/grease --- and it's very thick (possibly more concentrated) and cold
But that's all
It isn't frozen
It isn't stuck to the plastic tube
It won't stick to icy cold metal

The grease in your car's wheelbarrings doesn't get frozen in the winter time but you can be sure it's just like that borebutter inside.

If you squeeze some out or dig it out with a screwdriver or cottonswab or something, you'll find that it imediatly goes back to it's normal consistancy once you touch it.

It's not going to act any differently once a patched ball is loaded in the gun. And there shouldn't be any borebutter actually in the bore itself anyway because a jag should be used before loading the rifle.

[bounce]

Young's Lube #103 is all I use. Use hot water for cleaning. Or too Murphy's oil soap, Hydrogen Peroxide. Isopropyl Alcohol. Mix two or three to one. the one is the Murphy's. Keep in a dark container, like the Hydrogen peroxide bottle. This stuff is realy good and unbeatable when cleaning up away from home. Great hand cleaner too!!

[klsm54]

From what I gather, never owned a nickel plated gun, certain solvents, Hoppe's #9 in particular, will stain or tarnish the nickel plating. I haven't heard of "oil" causing this, but it would proably be better to be safe than sorry. Seems that some people aren't pleased with nickel plating on muzzleloaders. It may take as much, or even more, care as blued versions...

[Purebred Redneck]

Same thing with the all nickel finished guns

Apparently the Browning Buckmark owners have the same situation