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Post by Jack on Jan 6, 2012 11:18:59 GMT -5
Needless to say, that's not something you try unless you are a competent gunsmith, with the required tooling.
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Post by Purebred Redneck on Jan 6, 2012 21:13:39 GMT -5
Welcome, Like Bounce said, a couple balls will work because you shave them down to size anyway. One thing I'll add is you'd probably want to go with the smaller ball because that short rammer won't give you much leverage. You do not use a patch. You'll either use a lubed felt Wonder Wad between the ball & powder OR you'll have to put Crisco or Bore Butter on top of the ball to prevent chain fires (though most chain fires I'm told occur in the nipple area as opposed to the front of the cylinder...better safe than sorry though). Wonder Wads are a little on the pricey side (I'm cheap) but are absolutly the way to go in my opinion because of the mess factor. I assume they make them for the 31. Here's a 22lr converter for a 1858. I'm not sure if one is commercially made for the 63 or not www.kirstkonverter.com/22konversion.html
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Post by twomoons on Jan 6, 2012 21:56:03 GMT -5
Nope won't work with a 32 bore gun, An interesting conversion though,
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Post by kickerone1 on Jan 8, 2012 15:54:46 GMT -5
Thanks to all of the helpful members. TwoMoons that sounds like a gunsmith job. If only I had the expertise to attempt something of that nature. If I had two of them I might see about it being done. I haven't even shot the one with balls yet but the balls are on the way. That was interesting about the chamber cutting away the excess lead. Another question I have is just how do you keep the #11 caps from falling off the nipples. The only muzzleloader I have shot I converted to shotgun primers.(T/C Hawkin that I put together as a kit many years ago.) Bot they are expensive not assembled $975, I could not believe it. Being 77 going on 78 though I am seeing a bunch of sticker SHOCK lately. I might even take up rustling. LOL Again thanks much guys. TOM
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Post by Purebred Redneck on Jan 8, 2012 22:58:08 GMT -5
Revolvers use #10 caps. If you have problems with the unfired caps being too lose and falling off during recoil, then you just pinch them a little.
I'm not sure I'd do this with the #11's though. Pinching draws them tighter but it also leaves a little space for the flame to potentially go through. The pinched 11 would be more dangerous than a pinched 10 (which you probably don't need to do).
I'd get #10's if you have a gunshop or Cabelas near you. Bass Pro might have them - depends on the size of the store. Mail order is disasterous unless you buy like 1000 at a time. More than likely you'll buy Remington as they are most popular / widespread in the stores. I used to not be crazy about them but I think CCI has gone a little downhill, the Winchesters I don't think they are as hot (never seen them in a #10 anyway), and the German caps are super expensive and nearly impossible to find. Remington is fine.
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Post by Purebred Redneck on Jan 8, 2012 23:20:26 GMT -5
$975 If I was going to buy a brand new rifle, it would be the Lyman Great Plains in probably a 54cal. I love the buckhorn sight (and it's a very good one). The Cabelas hawken is a little cheaper but the sights are worthless - I'd end up putting on the LGP sights on it anyway. There are a lot of used traditional guns hitting the market on different forums, you just have to be a smart buyer. There is no reason to ever pay a penny more $150 to your door unless it's a Lyman or T/C Renegade. And then you never know how pitted the barrel is or if the lock works. Last week on another forum I saw someone selling like a 25 year old CVA whose stock was half stripped. He wanted $150 and a bunch of guys were saying what a great price that was. Good lord, that was a HORRIBLE price. If the stock was finished, I'd be a buyer at $100 shipped and I'm the one taking ALL the risk.
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