Post by sebastian on Aug 19, 2005 14:47:30 GMT -5
Hi all,
I would like to let you know about my rest...(set of front set, including the bags).
First of all, why i build my own rest? Because i like tinkering thing. I like/prefer to use my own design. Another thing is (perhaps), because i can not find a rest over here in Indonesia. Sorry, "benchrest stuffs" are not readily available in the neck of the woods over here.
Besides, i plan to give my rest as a gift for the US's friend. I know he will pleased with it. It would become his best rest. I can make another for myself, later.
I also want they know that a guy from a thirld world country (me) can make a very good stuff.
I now in process to finish/completing my second rests. (the first one is 95% ready now, the second rest is about 60%).
They are co-axial type rest. It has "X" (horizontal) and "Y" (vertical) axis or adjustments, by "a handle" or "joystick", just in one move, in the same time. It allows the shooter make the X and Y adjustments in the same time.
The primary benefit is, shooting faster in a given condition. This is very important for benchrest shooters.
Nowadays, more and more shooters who use co-ax rest as like Farley's. (*from what i can gather from bencrest.com). After i tried myself some time ago, i was sure coax rest is superb! It is far superior rather than conventional rests, if i can say that.
What i need is to more familiar with the new co-ax system. (sometimes i still "tend" to reach/squeze the rear bag).
I hope that i can show you some pics...(reason is pic is thousand of words).
But "in a glance", my first front rest is primarily in stainless steel construction, polished (shiny), weighs at 8,5 kgs, has steel balls/bearings inside of the mechanism for smooth operation (separated for X and Y movements), it has joystick that i can easily atach/open it, it can be adjusted for the sensitiveness - by turning a part of the "coax-block" - forward or backward (it's a new design i believe). Move the screw/thread forward, and i can get more sensitive/finer adjustment, move the thread backward and i can get coarser adjustments.
With the finer adjustment, i can easily move about 30 or so kilograms weigh on top of the rest, using the joystick with ease, just with one point finger. (the way to hold/move the handle is like handling a billiard's stick). Besides, i don't need another bag to put on my left wrist because the height of the stick is in a right/comfortable place.
My rest also has "speed screw", at the rear, it is a big thread and big knob/handle (of 3" dia), in case i need more elevation, or when i feel the height of the handle is to high or low. (with a "offset" centerline, actually the stick can also be adjusted for the height - this also a new design, i believe).
My second rest (is in process now), has same "coax-block" as the first rest, but i intentionally make different base (different model). Btw, my first rest is in "T" base, and all the parts can be knock downed. (need small/smaller space in a suitcase).
With the same "coax-block", i can have some "model/type" of rests. This is "a benefit" too, if i can say that. (but due to the time left, i make the second base in triangle shape, and would be laquer finished).
Farley's rest, most of the parts are in powder coating (from what i could see in some pics), my rest is in polished shiny finished, so it will make it "more custom". I can add the rifle's loaner's initial (Gary Conaway) on the rest, or even some "accentuation/motief" (can vary) - by bead blasting.
It looks more "proffesional" than Farley's, in my eyes. I think it's because i have worked hard, and gathered some references before i build/design it. Anyway, it took a lot of time, and also need some machinaries that i don't have in hand (such like surface grinding machine, and wire cutting).
Some folks say: If you can't shoot good - At least you should looks good.....this also means with the equipments being used.
Well, i couldn't dissagree anymore!.
My bags (also custom made, and also more finer than Protector/Bald Eagle), are also in process now.
I make them similar like "Edgewood" bag (the cadillac of bag), but i make different "fill holes" methode. I use nylon screws/thread for the fill holes. It looks more neat to my eyes. No leak, etc. (double layered inside, especially with/for the seams).
The base of the rear bags also in a thick/rigid base. Rubber layer on the base (would "stick" more to the bench). Of about 6-7 kilograms if filled with heavy/foundry sand.
I ask a sewer for the bags, btw. It needs strong/special sew machine such like used in shoe making etc. I can not sew myself. Just cut the pattern and make sketches/models.
I also make some wooden cartridge blocks for gifts.
........All should be ready before Sept. Whew!.
Cheers,
Seb.
I would like to let you know about my rest...(set of front set, including the bags).
First of all, why i build my own rest? Because i like tinkering thing. I like/prefer to use my own design. Another thing is (perhaps), because i can not find a rest over here in Indonesia. Sorry, "benchrest stuffs" are not readily available in the neck of the woods over here.
Besides, i plan to give my rest as a gift for the US's friend. I know he will pleased with it. It would become his best rest. I can make another for myself, later.
I also want they know that a guy from a thirld world country (me) can make a very good stuff.
I now in process to finish/completing my second rests. (the first one is 95% ready now, the second rest is about 60%).
They are co-axial type rest. It has "X" (horizontal) and "Y" (vertical) axis or adjustments, by "a handle" or "joystick", just in one move, in the same time. It allows the shooter make the X and Y adjustments in the same time.
The primary benefit is, shooting faster in a given condition. This is very important for benchrest shooters.
Nowadays, more and more shooters who use co-ax rest as like Farley's. (*from what i can gather from bencrest.com). After i tried myself some time ago, i was sure coax rest is superb! It is far superior rather than conventional rests, if i can say that.
What i need is to more familiar with the new co-ax system. (sometimes i still "tend" to reach/squeze the rear bag).
I hope that i can show you some pics...(reason is pic is thousand of words).
But "in a glance", my first front rest is primarily in stainless steel construction, polished (shiny), weighs at 8,5 kgs, has steel balls/bearings inside of the mechanism for smooth operation (separated for X and Y movements), it has joystick that i can easily atach/open it, it can be adjusted for the sensitiveness - by turning a part of the "coax-block" - forward or backward (it's a new design i believe). Move the screw/thread forward, and i can get more sensitive/finer adjustment, move the thread backward and i can get coarser adjustments.
With the finer adjustment, i can easily move about 30 or so kilograms weigh on top of the rest, using the joystick with ease, just with one point finger. (the way to hold/move the handle is like handling a billiard's stick). Besides, i don't need another bag to put on my left wrist because the height of the stick is in a right/comfortable place.
My rest also has "speed screw", at the rear, it is a big thread and big knob/handle (of 3" dia), in case i need more elevation, or when i feel the height of the handle is to high or low. (with a "offset" centerline, actually the stick can also be adjusted for the height - this also a new design, i believe).
My second rest (is in process now), has same "coax-block" as the first rest, but i intentionally make different base (different model). Btw, my first rest is in "T" base, and all the parts can be knock downed. (need small/smaller space in a suitcase).
With the same "coax-block", i can have some "model/type" of rests. This is "a benefit" too, if i can say that. (but due to the time left, i make the second base in triangle shape, and would be laquer finished).
Farley's rest, most of the parts are in powder coating (from what i could see in some pics), my rest is in polished shiny finished, so it will make it "more custom". I can add the rifle's loaner's initial (Gary Conaway) on the rest, or even some "accentuation/motief" (can vary) - by bead blasting.
It looks more "proffesional" than Farley's, in my eyes. I think it's because i have worked hard, and gathered some references before i build/design it. Anyway, it took a lot of time, and also need some machinaries that i don't have in hand (such like surface grinding machine, and wire cutting).
Some folks say: If you can't shoot good - At least you should looks good.....this also means with the equipments being used.
Well, i couldn't dissagree anymore!.
My bags (also custom made, and also more finer than Protector/Bald Eagle), are also in process now.
I make them similar like "Edgewood" bag (the cadillac of bag), but i make different "fill holes" methode. I use nylon screws/thread for the fill holes. It looks more neat to my eyes. No leak, etc. (double layered inside, especially with/for the seams).
The base of the rear bags also in a thick/rigid base. Rubber layer on the base (would "stick" more to the bench). Of about 6-7 kilograms if filled with heavy/foundry sand.
I ask a sewer for the bags, btw. It needs strong/special sew machine such like used in shoe making etc. I can not sew myself. Just cut the pattern and make sketches/models.
I also make some wooden cartridge blocks for gifts.
........All should be ready before Sept. Whew!.
Cheers,
Seb.
...So you are not the only one who is not a computer genius... 
;D
